Fourth Form of Madness

Finding our way out of Grasse was as hard as finding our way in. Our GPS went a little crazy and had us turning into one way streets and turning off exits that were not there. This is all on narrow, steep medieval streets. I was officially sacked as navigator in the first 5 minutes when we left Paris to go through Normandy, however, I was looking a pretty hot ticket for navigator that day! My official title now is spotter – I spot supermarkets and the occasionally tourist attraction. I don’t stress myself too hard – I don’t really want the job of navigator. After much reversing and swearing we eventually got to Gourdon, an ideallic pre-alps village with a traditional perfumery. We wandered around the town, which seems to be a town of cats (they even have t-shirts declaring this). The perfumery was in full swing when we got there. I started smelling the wares and it wasn’t long before everything smelt the same and I needed a good lie down as my head was all giddy from the smells. The sales lady must have got sick of me pawing her merchandise cause she ended up selecting a perfume for me to try and buy. I took her suggestion on board and purchased it and left.

On we travelled in the pre-alps. The travel books weren’t calling this the alps yet but everywhere you looked there were signs saying alps this and alps that. Driving in the Alps (or pre-alps) is really beautiful. You are surrounded by scenery that Heidi would have felt at home in. The only thing is the driving is quite hard for some of it. Lots of narrow roads and trucks, not a good combination. It was easy for me, I just sat in the passenger seat and yelled supermarket or petrol station very occasionally between packets of chips, but poor husband was trying to drive the continuous maze of roads, read the sat nav and avoid crazy drivers who had decided to pass a truck and were heading straight for us in our lane. For these reasons, when we arrived at Dignes-les-Bains, the land of the hot thermal springs, we decided to stop for a night, get out our togs and sample the guaranteed soothing and relaxing effects of the thermal springs.

These springs have been around for a long time (yep I’m too lazy to get my Lonely Planet to tell you exactly how long). Doctors are still sending patients up to the springs for treatment. Even though the tourist office said they were closed, husband and I persevered and found some thermal pools that were open on the edge of town. We were given lovely blue robes which, as fashion fate would have it, matched the shade of my blue bikinis perfectly. We were also given a towel the size of a serviette and a cloth swimming cap that we were told was mandatory. As we strode into the thermal spring, which actually looked a lot like your average in door swimming pool, we were instructed to shower (they can pick a dirty Australian a mile off) and then proceed to the waters. As I slipped my bikini clad body into the pool, whilst at all times trying to keep my bum out of direct view, the delicious warm and slightly sulphury water gently engulfed my body. It turns out that bikinis might not be big in Dignes as I was the only one there in one. Everyone else was in a painfully sensible one piece. As I adjusted my red and white cloth head cap that clashed with my bathers and made me look more like a surf life saver than the sexy middle age piece of fluff that I was angling to be, I noticed that the other patrons, mostly 60 year old women, were giving my husband the sly once over. Admittedly they were eyeing off all his tattoos and it did look like they were contemplating hiding their purses, but I kept my eye on them. Sulphur can make you do strange stuff and the springs do make you feel younger. Husband discovered the underwater entertainment, if you hold your head under there is relaxing, yogic kind of music playing. I spent the rest of the time floating on my back, drifting aimlessly around the pool bumping into whoever was not quick enough to get out of my way. Afterwards over a bottle of wine, we both agreed we felt more relaxed.

We were extremely lucky to find yet another wonderful B&B. Seriously, this is my favourite way to travel now in France as you get amazing places to stay in that are individually decorated by the owners, great food and quiet surroundings. We were staying with Anne and Tuy Nguyen in the mountains of Dignes. The place was so beautiful and was traditionally French provincial from the outside. Inside our private little space was a Vietnamese heaven with a jet spray power shower. I felt like I had been transported 10 years back and now in the middle of Hanoi, the main ceiling light was that of a pink lotus bulb. It was wonderful and I have posted separately their website details on facebook. We ended up having dinner there as we have never done this at a B&B. What have we been missing out on!!! We had the most amazing three course meal which was the perfect blend between French and Vietnamese cuisine. Anne and Tuy are definitely candidates for “My Kitchen Rules” which is a really popular show over here also (I call it McDonald TV – served up with the same ingredients in every country ). Every course had a carrot or radish carving on the plate with it. Menu was starter – asparagus souffle with vietnamese style salad and king prawn, main – beef mignon with a teriyaki like sauce and dessert – banana pancakes with toffee sauce (done like banana spring rolls), red bean ice cream and a black bean shotter. We rolled out of the place the next morning not before Anne gave us one of her lavender pillows as a farewell gift.

More driving in the Alps, followed by more driving in Alps proper. Finally arrived in Annecy which is a very pretty city situated around a lake. I don’t know why but I thought this was a sleepy little town but it is a thriving tourist spot and I can see why. It is so beautiful and there are a million things to do. Hiking, rock climbing, paragliding – all of which I won’t be doing. I am quite content to sit on the deck overlooking the swimming pool and lake of our new fabulous B&B and sip white wine from the region and eat my newest find, cheeseburger chips (they really taste like a McDonald’s cheeseburger and every cell in me knows I shouldn’t like them but I can’t help myself). With this view why move?